As Far As the Eye Can See

March 9

Our trip into the countryside signifies our last trip as an entire group in Florence—let the nostalgia begin. Per usual, we had our own bus that carted us around the winding roads (I’m still not sure how the bus driver managed to get around some of those curves). Our first stop was the Convento Bosco ai Frati, a Franciscan order than is still in use (however, the friars were light blue habits instead of the usual brown because this specific branch of the order is dedicated to the Virgin Mary). Tucked away in one of the side rooms is Donatello’s Crucifixion, which is honestly one of the most haunting pieces I have seen. Brunelleschi criticized Donatello for this piece, saying that Christ looked more like a peasant than a divine being. However, I think the emphasis on his suffering makes up for the lack of holiness.

After a very quick stop outside the Villa Medicea Cafraggiolo (we literally hopped off the bus, ran across the road, and stood in front of the gate for as long as it took our bus driver to turn around—we couldn’t get in because the building is being renovated for a hotel), we continued on to the Villa Medicea di Poggio a Caiano. We had an hour to break for lunch, during which time I made several kitty friends. After regrouping, we took a tour of Lorenzo il Magnifico’s summer residence (well, he died before it was completed, but it still stayed in the family). The allegorical frieze (a nod to antiquity) and the chandeliers (intricate leaves, vines, and flowers) were absolutely beautiful.

Our last stop was the Tenuta di Capezzana, which is another former Medicean residence, but is now one of the oldest and most famous wineries in the world. The owner’s granddaughter gave us a tour of the wine cellars, where we saw wine that was older than us, as well as barrels that were taller than we were. Despite the presence of mold, the smells were incredible. Even in the olive oil production rooms smelled great and there wasn’t even any product in the terra cotta barrels. To top off the visit, we were treated to a wine tasting. I don’t really care for wine (yes, I know, I’m in Italy, shame on me), but I did attempt a couple of sips of each glass.

From the very edge of the estate, the Duomo is visible through the hills. It’s just a little speck, but it’s still visible. Its presence is impossible to escape—not that I mind in the least.