Ain’t No Mountain High Enough in Assisi

February 17

One of the perks of this program: we get to take private buses to and from our destinations. I had planned to use the two-hour bus ride to catch up on homework, but it was more fun to look at the countryside pass by outside the window. We drove by Lake Trasimeno, which the largest lake in the Italian peninsula, before arriving at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli at the foot of the hill of Assisi. This is where the Porziuncola, or the small church where Saint Francis started out, is located. Francis also rolled in the rose gardens here, which is why the flowers don’t have any thorns. In the hallway to the gardens, there is a statue of Francis with two real white doves sitting on it. Francis died in this church, but his relics are kept at the Basilica of San Francesco, a fact that has caused a division between the Franciscan order—the church is obviously too elaborate to coincide with the vow of poverty that Franciscans believe in.

We took the bus up the hill to visit this famous pilgrimage. While the exterior is big and bright, the interior of the first church is dark and (for me) claustrophobic (compared to the basilicas I’ve become accustomed to visiting). However, the frescoes were unbelievable. So many frescoes, all in relatively good condition, and I could recognize the influences and think of some artists who may have studied there. We saw his crypt, then we climbed up into the second nave and examined over twenty-eight frescoes depicting scenes of Saint Francis’ life. I now consider myself an expert in his life.

After a quick hike (hahaha) up the hill to see Santa Maria sopra Minerva (a church that uses the façade of a Roman temple), we had a group lunch at some kind of community center (meat and potatoes—probably the most American thing I’ve eaten in Italy). Our last main stop was a trip to Santa Chiara, the church of Clare who represents the female Franciscan order (of course it’s pink). The crucifix that told Francis to rebuild his church hangs in the nun’s chapel and there are also garments that Clare and Francis wore hanging in an exhibit across from Clare’s relics.

In the late afternoon, we were free to explore the rest of the hilltop city on our own. The weather was absolutely gorgeous (finally!), so Duncan, Callie, and I started meandering up the hill. We found a Roman tunnel that lead to a parking garage, then visited the Cathedral of San Rufino. The poor church doesn’t get much attention because Francis steals most of the spotlight, but I found its Romanesque façade (complete with animal sculptures!) and glass floors (to display Roman ruins underneath) to be captivating.

Then we continued up the mountain for the most breathtaking view of the countryside ever. The panoramic view overlooking Florence from Fiesole will always be my favorite, but standing next to the Rocca Maggiore, gazing out over the mountains and fields is a close contender. On the way home, we watched Fratello Sole, Sorella Luna (Brother Sun, Sister Moon), a film which tells the story of Francis and Clare. Just another reminder that Assisi is a “one saint city.”