Tutti Quanti Vogliono Restare in Firenze

March 12

After a long day of reviewing for finals in Saints and Italian, I decided that I needed to visit the Boboli Gardens one last time before I left Florence. I justified this by telling myself that I was going to do homework, but I ended up exploring. It was nice to see all of the tourists and Italians taking advantage of the beautiful day, but I was beginning to miss having the sites of Florence to myself (it’s so weird to walk down the street and hear more conversations in English than Italian). On my way out, I noticed that the Grotta di Buontalenti was actually opened. I finally got a closer look at the interior, which must have been Disney’s inspiration for the setting of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. It must have been awesome to see the entire thing dripping with water.

March 13

One last site visit with Jodie for the Medici course. We started out at the Galleria dell’Accademia and then segued to the Medici Chapels, all while talking about one of my favorite artists: Michelangelo. The perfect way to end the course, my last class of the program, and last session with Jodie and her wealth of knowledge. We had one last day of crazy Italian class, singing, figuring out what Italians think squirrels look like, and demonstrating our overall “pazzo” for Tessa’s family, who were visiting for the week. After class, a small group of students and professors went to Americani a Firenze: Sargent and the American Impressionists, an exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi. John Singer Sargent, Mary Cassatt, Thomas Eakins, James Abbot McNeill Whistler, William Merrit Chase, and so many, many more. I loved being able to see these American artists’ impressions of Florence, how they were inspired by the city’s beauty, and compare it to my own experiences.

March 14

After turning in our Saints final, Lori and I hit San Lorenzo market to continue our last minute souvenir shopping. After Italian, Callie and I enjoyed our daily scoop of gelato and geeked out over the fact that the column of Saint Zenobius was out of restoration. That evening was the Final Art Show and the Farewell Dinner. The studio art students displayed their charcoal and pencil drawings that they had been working on over the last seven weeks. To see how much skill had developed over such a short amount of time was so cool. Afterwards, we returned to the restaurant that we had eaten at on our first two nights in Florence. All the memories of the last ten weeks all rushed over me, so when Michelle suggested that our table make goodbye speeches, I knew that I was going to cry. I’m going to miss Florence, the museums, the history, my professors, and of course, all of the wonderful new friends I’ve made. They are the ones who helped make this experience truly memorable.

March 15

I thought that my stomachache was an accumulation of finals stress and oh-my-god-I-have-less-than-two-days-to-do-EVERYTHING anxiety physically manifesting itself in my body. So I tried to ignore it. In the early evening, Lori and I took the bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo to see the panoramic view of Florence one last time. We had planned to watch the Gregorian chants at San Miniato, but I got the times wrong. However, we did get to see the very beginning of a mass.

American dinner had been postponed on Tuesday because Katie and Andrea were both sick, and as soon as I sat down to chop tomatoes, I knew that I was the next. Thank you so much to Katie for preparing a wonderful meal of macaroni and cheese, tacos, and peanut butter cookies for our host parents while I attempted to recover.

March 16

Having the stomach flu is not the best way to end a trip or face one’s last final, but that’s how my day began. I finished my paper, hauled the rest of my books to Linguaviva, said some more goodbyes to my classmates, had my last final with Jodie, sold back my phone, and then said my goodbyes to the art. I probably shouldn’t have dragged myself so far around the city under the influence of a fever, but I couldn’t leave Florence without visiting the Galleria dell’Accademia and Uffizi Gallery one last time.

Beautiful, Terrible, Ruined

March 10

First class train ride to Naples! Lori, Duncan, and I walked out of the train station and into the busy streets and immediately felt uncomfortable. Jodie had warned us to be extra careful of pickpockets, so I was already a little on edge. Naples is dirty, sketchy, and modern—there’s garbage everywhere, street venders piled on top of each other everywhere, and construction, yes, everywhere. Before taking the next train to Pompei (the modern-day city is spelled with one i, while the ancient ruins are spelled with two), we went off in search of some famous Napoli pizza. We ended up waiting in like a Da Michele, but this was all part of the experience. The restaurant only has two kinds of pizza—they sit you down, bring out the food, and you inhale it as quickly as possible, then you’re back out the door. We spent more time waiting than eating, but it was so good! Also, Julia Roberts ate at Da Michele while filming Eat Pray Love.

Back to the sketchy train station, crowded between a bunch of middle-schoolers, and about half an hour later, we were in Pompei. The sea on one side, the mountains on the other. Mount Vesuvius, to be exact (every time a train went by, I was convinced that it was the volcano about to erupt again). Lori and I could see the ruins of Pompeii from our balcony! The entrance was literally a five-minute walk from our hotel, which was awesome. The three of us got radio receivers, and then took off to explore the city. I knew that Pompeii was a city, but I didn’t quite comprehend just how big it was. We ended up getting lost several times and didn’t get to see everything, but the weather was overcast and dreary, so we didn’t have to fight with many tourists.

Facts that you should know about Pompeii: in 63 AD, an earthquake hit the city. It was still being rebuilt in 79 AD, when the infamous eruption happened. Mt. Vesuvius exploded, sending ash twelve miles into the air, twice the speed of sound, and hovered for twelve hours before hitting the earth again. The citizens of Pompeii thought that it was just a harmless cloud, so most of them didn’t bother to evacuate. When the volcanic material started raining down, the people didn’t even have time to move. Excavations found empty cavities in the hardened rock, which turned out to be where bodies had decomposed. They poured plaster into these holes and captured the last moments of the ancient Romans’ lives. One man is curled up into a ball, another is screaming in terror. It was so eerie.

After the park closed, we hunted down some gelato and went back to the hotel to rest. I brought homework (finals are coming up…bleh), but I ended up just relaxing. Lori and I watched the original Doctor Doolittle in Italian and I was asleep before eleven.

March 11

We headed out early the next morning in order to stop in Ercolano on the way back to Naples. Ercolano is home to Herculaneum, a seaside town that was also hit by the volcano. Herculaneum has been preserved a lot better over the years—some of the three story structures are still standing. The ruins have been carved out the rocks and the walls of volcanic rock remain. The shoreline was extended by quite a bit by the amount of volcanic material, so archaeologists assumed that the lack of bodies in the houses meant that these citizens had more time to escape. However, further excavations uncovered a mass of bodies all huddled down by the water’s edge, which is truly tragic.

Although I enjoyed the historic value of the ruins, I realized that my true identity is an art geek—I would perk up whenever we found an intact fresco or mosaic still preserved on the walls or floors. I was also determined to make it down to the seaside, but after wandering into the sketchiest part of Ercolano, I was ready to abandon all hope of making it to the shore and run back up the hill to the train station. After arriving back in Napoli, we decided that we needed some more pizza. Da Michele was closed, but we found a non-touristy place right next to the Porta Capuana, which was an ancient city gate. Afterwards, we trekked around the piles of garbage…erm, city in search of some churches (because you can never see enough of those in Italy).

As Far As the Eye Can See

March 9

Our trip into the countryside signifies our last trip as an entire group in Florence—let the nostalgia begin. Per usual, we had our own bus that carted us around the winding roads (I’m still not sure how the bus driver managed to get around some of those curves). Our first stop was the Convento Bosco ai Frati, a Franciscan order than is still in use (however, the friars were light blue habits instead of the usual brown because this specific branch of the order is dedicated to the Virgin Mary). Tucked away in one of the side rooms is Donatello’s Crucifixion, which is honestly one of the most haunting pieces I have seen. Brunelleschi criticized Donatello for this piece, saying that Christ looked more like a peasant than a divine being. However, I think the emphasis on his suffering makes up for the lack of holiness.

After a very quick stop outside the Villa Medicea Cafraggiolo (we literally hopped off the bus, ran across the road, and stood in front of the gate for as long as it took our bus driver to turn around—we couldn’t get in because the building is being renovated for a hotel), we continued on to the Villa Medicea di Poggio a Caiano. We had an hour to break for lunch, during which time I made several kitty friends. After regrouping, we took a tour of Lorenzo il Magnifico’s summer residence (well, he died before it was completed, but it still stayed in the family). The allegorical frieze (a nod to antiquity) and the chandeliers (intricate leaves, vines, and flowers) were absolutely beautiful.

Our last stop was the Tenuta di Capezzana, which is another former Medicean residence, but is now one of the oldest and most famous wineries in the world. The owner’s granddaughter gave us a tour of the wine cellars, where we saw wine that was older than us, as well as barrels that were taller than we were. Despite the presence of mold, the smells were incredible. Even in the olive oil production rooms smelled great and there wasn’t even any product in the terra cotta barrels. To top off the visit, we were treated to a wine tasting. I don’t really care for wine (yes, I know, I’m in Italy, shame on me), but I did attempt a couple of sips of each glass.

From the very edge of the estate, the Duomo is visible through the hills. It’s just a little speck, but it’s still visible. Its presence is impossible to escape—not that I mind in the least.

Volta Vola

March 5

The Medici class started off at the Opera dell’Duomo. I can now officially say that I’ve seen all three of Michelangelo’s Pietà’s! Also, I have kind of earned myself the reputation of being a “Michelangelo’s fan-girl” over the course of this trip. So being able to give a report about Michelangelo in Casa Buonarroti (even though he never actually lived there), standing in-between the Madonna of the Steps and Battle of the Centaurs, which original figure sketches from the Sistine Chapel in the next room over—no words. Plus, I found a poster of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in the gift shop. Guess what’s going above my bed when I get back to Knox?

Battle of the Centaurs (image found)

March 6

Happy Birthday Michelangelo! But that’s beside the point. The Saints class met at the Bargello, where I gave my next report on the significance of the Madonna Lactans, also known as the Nursing Madonna. There was some tension over the fact that the Virgin Mary’s purity was being compromised with the presence of nudity. However, these images were really methods of subliminal messaging in order to keep women in their place (okay, it’s a little more complex than that, but if I get going then I won’t stop. All you need to know is: feminist art history, my favorite!).

After Italian, most of the group took an optional visit to the Teatro della Pergola, an opera house commissioned by the Medici family. It’s one of the oldest theatres in Italy and we got to see all of the little pieces that helped the show run smoothly: Rain, wind, thunder, and lightning machines, the ramp that the horse climbed to get onstage, the first real telephone, the contraption that raised and lowered the stage, and the chair where Giuseppe Verdi sat.

March 7

Now that the weather is getting warmer, the tourists are beginning to emerge. I’m glad that I chose the winter program, despite the unbearably cold churches. I’d rather freeze than fight the crowds. But I’d fight the crowds at the Uffizi any day to see Botticelli and da Vinci, two of the artists that we learned about today. I realized that if I stay in the Botticelli room too long, I forget how to breathe. I’m going to have to start bringing an oxygen tank to art museums so that I don’t pass out.

Leonardo da Vinci's "Annunciation" (image found)

After Italian, we revisited the Brancacci Chapel with Professor Solberg. I always think it’s kind of entertaining when our classes pick up a couple of tourists. Sometimes they’ll try to be discreet about listening, other times they’ll just join in and follow us around. I mean, I suppose I’d do that too, but I’m not fluent in Italian and that’s beside the point. Gelato as an afternoon snack and pizza for dinner. Gah, I’m going to miss this food.

March 8

Happy International Women’s Day! Celebrated on the anniversary of the Triangle fire in New York…I took a different route to Linguaviva, only to be bombarded by street venders selling yellow flowers for the occasion. I arrived early, printed off my paper (comparisons of the Madonna Enthroned, the Madonna of Humility, and the Madonna Lactans. Carmen and I went to visit a triptych at the Bigallo (a teensy little museum near the corner of the Duomo, which is practically impossible to get into because of their weird times). After a grueling Italian quiz (okay, it wasn’t that bad. I hope. But I keep slipping into Spanish on the essays), we reviewed artworks for the Medici class (I’m so glad that I went to Prato, it helps the puzzle pieces fall into place). I hauled home a stack of books (more Michelangelo!) for my final paper and lamented the fact that finals have to exist in Italy when it’s so gorgeous out.

Daddi's Triptych at the Bigallo (image found)

Gondolas, Masks, and Aqua!

March 2

Usual meeting place, usual early hour, and then we were on the train to Venice! Our first stop (by private boat, nonetheless) was the island of Murano, which is famous for its glassware. We were treated to a glassblowing demonstration, during which the artisan created a vase and a horse figurine—each in under five minutes. Apparently, you need fifteen years of apprenticeship in order to achieve this level of skill, but all of those years are worth it. Especially if you get to live on this island with such a gorgeous view!

After we checked into the hotel, the professors lead our group through the maze of canals to San Marco. The cathedral is so different from every other church we have seen due to the Islamic influences. Oh, and the gold. The entire basilica, inside and out, glitters with mosaics that, if spread out all at once, could cover over an acre. A lot of the gold has changed hands multiple times, plundered from the Romans, stolen by Napoleon, the usual story. After walking along the façade, we toured Palazzo Ducale, the home of the Doge (Duke). Frescoes cannot survive because of the environment, so this palace houses some of the largest canvas paintings ever in existence.

In order to get out of the palazzo, Jodie had to take us to jail. We crossed over the Bridge of Sighs, where prisoners caught their last glimpse of Venice before being tossed into prison. Also, these cells were supposedly an improvement because they were the most humane in existence (if this was considered livable, then I cannot imagine the terrible conditions that existed before). Free time was consumed with gelato eating and naptime (why do all of the museums and churches have to close at five?).

March 3

After breakfast, we plunged back into the maze of canals and alleyways to Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the Franciscan church of Venice. And home of Titian’s Assumption (two years, 22 feet by 16 feet) and Pesaro Madonna (seven years, sixteen feet by almost nine feet). He knew where his paintings would be beforehand, matched the architectural fixtures to those already in the building, and used the natural light from the stain glass windows to enhance the colors and drama. Plus, the wall tombs in the Frari were huge and magnificent (floor tombs were virtually nonexistent for obvious reasons).

After visiting the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, Tintoretto is probably one of my new favorite painters. He painted all of the walls and ceilings of the confraternity’s building between 1564 and 1567, an impressive feat. His subject is the same religious cycle as any other, yet the way he represents the story, through his use of light and drama, is simply captivating.

During our free time, I joined in on an excursion to find a proper Venetian mask. We visited several shops before I finally settled on a feathered purple and silver mask (which I haven’t unwrapped yet). Visiting the shops is like visiting a small museum because there is so much to see! We ate lunch at Ristorante San Travaso, where I tried a bite of spaghetti al nero di seppia—squid ink! It tasted kind of fishy…

Jodie offered a tour of the Gallerie dell’Accademia, which is the museum that owns Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man, but of course, it’s never on display. But I did get to see Giorgione’s La Tempesta and Paolo Veronese’s The Feast in the House of Levi. And some more Titian’s, which is enough to make any art geek happy. Afterwards, I wandered through Santa Maria della Salute and around the exterior of Palazzo Grassi, just admiring the beauty of the canals.

March 4

In a completely out of character move, I opted out of the optional tour to San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and San Giovanni e Paolo. Instead, Amy, Stephanie and I took a short (thirty second) and inexpensive (.50 cent) gondola ride across the Canale della Giudecca, then headed across the city to Ca’Pesaro, a modern art museum with 19th and 20th century works (this is what I’m going to be studying back at Knox in a few weeks! I’m so excited!). The museum’s most famous artworks are paintings by Klimit (Judith II), Kandinsky (White Zig Zags), and Chagall (Rabbi No. 2). While it was wonderful to see such masters in person, I was even more fascinated by the lesser-known artists (especially since tour groups were clustered around the others—so that’s what it’s like to be on the other side). I love discovering the unexpected in the art museums. So imagine by surprise when I walked around the corner of a single artist (Gennaro Favai) exhibit and right THERE was Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker.

After a short recovery period, I took off on my own to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (it is now my goal in life to visit every Guggenheim museum—one down, eight or nine to go!). This collection has a lot of famous names: Ernest, Magritte, Jackson, Pollock, Duchamp, Picasso, Braque, Dali, Ray, Chagall, and these are just the names that I recognized from previous studies. I filled up half of my travel notebook with names of artists and their works so that when I have some free time (ha…hahahaha) I can go back and look them up. Also, Yoko Ono’s Wish Tree was in the garden, which was cute and touristy and I loved it anyway.

After dragging myself away from the collection, I started searching for the churches on my pass. The only problem with this endeavor is that they were closed. Bad timing. So I had some gelato and spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out along the canals with my friends. I’m just happy that I got my museum fix, hopefully that will tide me over for…well, a while.

Meglio Tardi Che Mai

February 27

The Saints class met at Piazza della Repubblica in order to discuss sculptures in public spaces. My lack of sleep became apparent when I could name every column I’ve ever seen—except the ones with statues originally on top. From there we studied the statues surrounding Palazzo Vecchio (it’s interesting to look at paintings from over the years and see how much the statues have been moved around). We went into Palazzo Vecchio and discussed the history of the building. The façade of the building used to face towards the Duomo and the clock tower is off-center because it is built over the remains of an ancient clan that once tried to overthrow Florence. After a quick trip to Orsanmichele (we all feel like experts on the guilds by now) our midterms were returned and we were free to go.

February 28

The Medici class started out at San Apollonia. I like doing repeat visits with different professors because it’s interesting to hear their diverse opinions on different pieces. We realized that Vasari likes to make things up—he constructed a plot in which Andrea del Castagno murdered Domenico Veneziano, which wouldn’t have been possible because Castagno would have had to come back from the dead to do so. He just really didn’t like Castagno (Vasari wrote the infamous Lives of the Artists, one of our texts for the class). After revisiting Santissima Annunziata, Jodie offered an optional visit to the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), which used to be an orphanage. It is currently used as a museum, preschool, and holds offices for different children’s organizations. We got to see Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, and Piero di Cosimo (no, not a Medici). Also, I had gelato twice today. This is slowly becoming more dangerous than the chocolate festival.

February 29

The weather was warm enough that I made it through three-fourths of our tour of Santa Maria Novella without getting cold—it’s a miracle! In Italian, we learned the song “Salvami” (Umberto picks songs that relate to whatever tense or grammatical thingamajig we’re learning), which we sang horribly off key several times. Afterwards, we all attended an orientation for our trip to Venice. I knew I was excited about the trip, but I didn’t realize how much—apparently, I was excitedly bouncing around in my chair the entire time (and just about fell out of my chair when Jodie told us about the museum passes that we’d be getting). Afterwards, I went out for gelato with a group of classmates, and then took the long way home (meaning that I purposely skipped my street and kept walking half an hour out of the way because that building waaaay down there looks really interesting).

March 1

Although I didn’t have class in the morning, I trekked over to Linguaviva early (ish) with the library’s copy of Giorgio Vasari’s Lives of the Artists, and finished reading up on Michelangelo for my report (I’d been working on this for a few days, Vasari dedicated over 160 pages of his book to him). Vasari basically believes that Michelangelo is divine, a saint even. Well, now that I think about it, I’m pretty obsessed with Michelangelo too, so I can’t make fun of Vasari too much. After Italian, the Medici class took the bus up to San Miniato al Monte, one of the first places we visited in Florence. I wouldn’t mind living up on that hill.